A New Year's Fez

The Ceramics Cooperative

We woke up way too early again this morning for a full day in Fez. I preferred the whole sleeping-in thing we were doing until the last two days. We had a delicious breakfast of yogurt with dried fruit, Moroccan breads with endless spreads, mint tea, and fresh OJ. I was stuffed by the end of it, as usual.

We waited outside our hotel at 9 am to meet the guide we had set up the day before. He came around the corner a little after and was incredibly relieved because there were three streets in Fez with the same name as ours. That just proved how much we needed a guide to navigate the city. We got in his car to go see a panorama of the city but stopped first at a pottery cooperative. It was really cool to see the whole process of how they make the pottery and tiles that line this city. We only intended to stay for a few minutes but ended up staying for an hour to see every step of it and make the decision of what to buy. My parents ended up getting a beautifully painted giant vase.

In the Medina

Then we drove a little further to see a panorama of the whole city, which was really pretty from above. After that, we walked through the medina and saw various sites in Fez. I much preferred walking through Fez over Marrakech because there are no motorbikes or cars in the medina – just some donkeys. It is also a lot less touristy than Marrakech. Today was Friday, which is the day of big prayer for Muslims, so many things were closed or closed early, so we didn’t get to see all of the shops. But we definitely got a gist of the city – it is still totally unlike anywhere I’ve been before and anywhere I would want to live, but the people seem friendly. I am in love with the little Moroccan kids – they are absolutely adorable. My dad thinks the well-dressed Spanish kids are cuter but I’ll go for the grungier Moroccan children playing in the streets. We spent a long time in co-ops today with people showing us their products and trying (usually successfully) to get us to buy their goods. We spent way too long in a rug co-op, but the tannery was interesting despite the terrible smell. Luckily, they gave us mint leaves to stick up our noses to help calm the stench. We had lunch at a spot where all the guides take their tour groups, but the food was decent and very filling. Eventually, we parted with our guide after making plans to see the countryside and more of the city tomorrow. Then my parents bought me a pretty scarf, and we got a whole demonstration on argan oil, so we had to buy some of that too.

The Tannery

Tonight, there is a party in our hotel so I’m hoping that will be a fun way to celebrate New Year’s Eve. I miss all my friends who are getting their party on in Boston, but I’ll survive with some couscous and Moroccan adventures (apparently the male chef here is an incredible belly dancer). ;)

Eight Hours to Fez - No Problem

Our Riad Room

This morning, we woke up a little after dawn with the chirping birds outside our window. We had our final delicious breakfast in Marrakech and taxied over to the train station. We said a very sad farewell to Josh and sent him off to the airport to go to Berlin. Traveling just isn’t the same without a brother to pick on me constantly.

We boarded the train and found that even first class seats in Morocco are pretty dingy, but they were surprisingly comfortable enough for the 8-hour ride. The Moroccan countryside was really gorgeous and the landscape changed often throughout the ride. We met a few interesting people in our car, including an incredibly adventurous Australian couple. Later, a sweet student got on and explained some things about Moroccan schools. Lastly, we were in the car with a very friendly Moroccan guy who worked for the tourist center in Fez. He told us everything we could want to know and hooked us up with a guide for tomorrow who supposedly showed Bill Clinton and Bono around Fez. It was like he was planted there by the government to give us all the inside details.

The train eventually stopped, and we took a van to the Palais Amani. It is tucked away in a poor-looking alley but it is anything but poor. We got the longest welcome I’ve ever received at a hotel. We walked into a central courtyard garden filled with beautiful tiles. Then the co-owner sat us down in the living room with mint tea and cookies and gave us a detailed explanation of the entire riad. It was fascinating. He was born in Morocco but grew up in France and had a very rich friend that he wanted to do some business venture with. So they decided to turn this previously private home (I would like this to be my private home) into a beautiful hotel. But he wanted to make it a project as well, so he said he would only hire local people. They trained the workers for a year before opening and had to teach them an entirely new way of reacting to things. It sounds like it totally changed their lives and he claims that they are very happy working here. I think I would be too, minus the long hours. Eventually, after my dad had all his questions answered, he showed us to our room. My parents are staying upstairs and I have a little bed downstairs in one big room. It is very nice.

Our Riad's Patio

We settled in and ventured out for a short walk through the city. We did not go very far because it is incredibly hard to navigate without a guide. The stores were all closed so we mostly just got looks and got asked to come to restaurants, but we saw some adorable kids playing in the street. I may have to smuggle a Moroccan child out of here when I go.

We went back to the riad and had one of the best dinners ever. It started with a beet puree. Then we had some sort of fennel dish with spinach. Then we had delicious beef – it was melt-in-your-mouth. It ended with sweet oranges and cinnamon. I wish I could say a more detailed description about the food but there was no menu and they couldn’t tell us in English what it was. But everything was perfect. Now we are relaxing and getting ready to sleep before the big adventure that surely awaits us tomorrow. And there is a party here tomorrow night for New Year’s Eve that I’m pretty pumped about!

Guided Around Marrakech By A Drunkard

We had another crazy day today in Marrakech. The adventures and oddities are never ending. We had a delicious and plentiful breakfast this morning before heading out into the city. First, we visited the Saadian Tombs. We waited in a very long line to see one room filled with tombs. It was very pretty but unexpectedly small and similar to many other rooms so I’m not sure it was worth the wait, but everyone was doing it. Then we went to El Badi Palace, which was now just ruins but it was really cool. It was a huge open space with a giant pool in the middle. I would like to throw a big party there like P. Diddy threw his birthday party in the next place we went – Bahia Palace. This palace was more functional with tiled floors and gardens. But I would still choose El Badi Palace for its expansiveness and its pool.

El Badi Palace

Jewish Cemetery

We then headed into the Jewish neighborhood – Mellah. It was hilarious because every time we were near that neighborhood, people would point us to the Jewish section. Everyone automatically knew that we were Jews; there was no fooling them. Somehow Josh got sucked into talking to this completely drunk, stumbling old man who ended up being our guide for the next hour. He led us all around the section. First we went to the synagogue, which was pretty with its blue and white tiles all over the walls. We were walking down the street and went into a spice shop. A man sat us down and showed us all of the spices and products on his walls and gave us some delicious mint tea. After a lot of product demonstrations, we ended up buying some amber perfumes and the mint tea. Then the drunk guy led us to the Jewish cemetery. He said he would wait for us outside because he was not allowed in, but we told the workers there that we were done with him. He put up a protest, but some workers eventually got rid of him for us. Like everyone else we voluntarily pay, he complained about the money and wanted double. We figured out that all of them are trained to beg for more, no matter what the pay is. We heard the stories of the Jews in Marrakech and wandered around the extensive cemetery. I nearly got locked in a bathroom there but luckily wheedled my way out eventually. In any case, I did not end up staying in the cemetery, although I have certainly thought that was possible on this trip.

Getting a Henna Tattoo

After that, we headed to the big market and actually found a good route to get there. The people on the street constantly point for tourists and say, “This way big square.” My mom asked for directions yesterday, and, because of Josh’s not-so-subtle prompts, actually said, “Which way big square?” It was classic. Today we found it without asking that question and ate another delicious dinner there after being told it was the best restaurant in the whole place by about 5 waiters. They sure know how to hound tourists. I had couscous, delicious olives, amazing Moroccan bread, and tomatoes and onions. As we were walking through the square after dinner, a lady approached me and offered me a henna tattoo. The next 3 minutes were totally crazy as she started putting it on me without my agreement, walked me quickly over to another area, grabbed two stools, sat me down on one, and had another woman apply tons of henna to both sides of my right hand. They tried to charge us a ton of money, and, like every other transaction, we ended up getting overcharged, but at least my hand is pretty now. Then we went scarf shopping in the souks before heading home. More people tried to show us to our riad, but we told them we knew where we were going. They also told us that they recognized us from yesterday. Did I mention how I feel out of place here? I think they can tell I don’t belong, too. Now we are back in our riad for a relaxing night before an early morning train to Fez. Josh is sadly leaving us to go party with his friends in Berlin, so there will be three of us left to brave Fez. I hear there aren’t motorbikes there, so we actually have a chance of surviving. 

Marrakech Adventure - Day 2

Me at the Majorelle Gardens

This morning, we woke up to a delicious breakfast provided by our riad. It had breads, yogurt, pound cake, omelets, crepes, jellies, fresh orange juice, and tea. What a great way to start the day! Then we walked through the crowded streets until we found a taxi that would take us to the train station to get our tickets to Fez in a couple days. We drove through the new part of the city, which was infinitely more luxurious than the old part – it literally looked like Boca Raton with endless fancy hotels. The train station was also very nice, and we felt like we were out of Morocco. We got the tickets and took another taxi to the Majorelle Gardens. After waiting in line for a little while, we entered this oasis. It was like a jungle filled with cacti and brightly colored pottery. We enjoyed the peacefulness there and checked out the museum filled with fashions by Yves Saint Laurent that were inspired by Marrakech. We wandered back through the new city to the old city and had lunch outside at a restaurant, which included more yummy couscous. It is funny to see the locals sit outside at cafes because they are all men and almost all sit on one side of the table and just people watch.

Medersa Ben Youssef

We got lost finding our next destination – the Medersa Ben Youssef. It used to be an Islamic college and is now a really cool building to walk around. It reminded me a lot of the Alcázar in Sevilla. We also explored a museum and ruins in that area. Then we went to a really nice spice shop, where we bought some amber and other gifts. It was beautiful with all the different colors of spices and various products in glass jars, including snakeskin and dead birds. We got sucked into spending way too long in a Berber rug store, but the rugs were very pretty and the people were nice. Eventually, we wandered through the “big market,” got some orange/grapefruit juice, and headed home. That is easier said than done, especially at night. We walked for way too long and ended up having little kids help us out. Everyone here offers to lead you places for a tip and then complains about what you give them. These kids were really cute until they begged us for more money, but they did point us in the right direction. With the help of many people on the street, we eventually found our way to a spot that we recognized. On the way, I saw a child pushing another child in a wheelchair who was wielding a gun. I hope it was fake but I was not going to ask. I was relieved to make it back to our riad and sit down for what felt like the first time all day. It was another exhausting and exciting day in Marrakech!

Moroccan Culture Shock

Dad and Josh with Snaaaakes

Today I ventured to a new and extremely different continent – Africa. We took a very quick and easy Ryanair flight from Sevilla to Marrakech, Morocco. The cab ride was fairly normal, although the driver did tether our oversized American suitcases to the trunk with a bungee cord. The driver could not take us down the street he wanted to because it was under construction, so he let us off in a different spot. He told us that our Riad (house-style hotel) was only 200 meters down a straight path. We were doubtful but set off to find it on foot with our suitcases in tow. On the crowded, unpaved streets full of people on motorbikes, I felt completely lost and out of place. Luckily, many people offered to help us, with the hope of getting tips, of course. We let one guy be our guide and followed several meters behind him as he weaved through the crowds of people. After about a 10-minute walk and many twists and turns, we arrived at the Riad Alma. We rang the doorbell, and a worker there let us in. She sat us down and brought us delicious mint tea. Eventually, another guy who barely spoke English showed us places on the map and led us to our rooms. It is a very nice and cozy place with huge beds and cool-looking showers. We settled in for a bit and headed out for quite an adventure.

Big Square

We walked back through the streets and ignored the countless offers to guide us. Not far from our hotel, I spotted my friends from Sevilla who we had also run into at the midnight Christmas Eve mass. How random! We exchanged some stories, and it was great to see familiar faces in such an unfamiliar place. We eventually parted ways and, after getting a bit lost, found the giant market square we were searching for. It sure was exotic! There were men dancing and clapping metal instruments, snake charmers (which I hated), and men holding monkeys. Then there were endless places to eat, buy fresh orange juice, and purchase dried fruits. We wandered around there and into an enclosed market with even more shops with hundreds of items, more spices, and more nuts. It was certainly overwhelming. I’m not sure how anyone can make a decision as to what buy since there are way too many options. I think if each store were open only one day per week, they would make a lot more money and work much less. After the claustrophobia set in, we sat down to eat at the first open air restaurant stand that courted us. We had chicken tangine and delicious cous cous. It was very yummy. When I asked to go to the bathroom, many of the waiters helped me out and pointed me to a café on the corner. One of them gave me 1 dirham to pay to use it. After crossing the path of doom (full of motorbikes, regular bikes, and cars), I walked into the café and looked totally lost. One guy eventually pointed me in the right direction. Another guy in a corner pointed me towards it again. Then I walked downstairs and found two guys waiting for me to pay them to use the restroom. I felt like I was going through a secret business transaction just to go to the bathroom. Everyone was excited for me at the restaurant when I returned safely.

Couscous

On the way home, I had cinnamon and fig flavored ice creams. Mmmm. Then we made the trek home. At one point, we had to cross a very busy intersection with no stop signs or traffic lights. The rest of my family made it across at an opportune moment, but I was stuck stranded on the other side. They were all laughing at me from across the street and were certain I would never make it. I spotted two Moroccan women down the street and stood stealthily behind them. When they started to cross (incredibly calmly, of course), I followed close behind them and used their expertise to guide me. I got across safely and found my mom doubled over with laughter at the sight. My brother had been trying to snap photos the entire time. On another street, some guy said to us, “Riad Alma, right?” He had either remembered where we were staying from the chaos earlier in the day or was a really good guesser. We eventually made it back to the hotel to much relief. Today was one of the biggest culture shocks I’ve ever experienced. Luckily, most people speak some English and I can understand the signs in French. Otherwise, this would be nearly impossible. The next few days will certainly be filled with adventures, and hopefully I’ll snap some great pictures of this out-of-this-world place.

Sevilla Con Mi Familia!

Josh at Plaza de España

My family and I spent the last week exploring Sevilla. It was so wonderful having them there to see what I experience all the time. They arrived on Thursday. I met them at their hotel just as they were checking in. It was amazing being able to give my parents huge hugs. I walked around with my mom a bit through Santa Cruz and we met Josh at the bus stop. We were all reunited for the first time since I graduated from college. We had dinner at Los Coloniales, which they were not huge fans of because it was mostly potatoes.

On Friday, I took them to Plaza de España and Parque Maria Luisa, which they thought were beautiful. In the park, my dad bought bird food and poured it all over himself, which means he was covered in pigeons and doves. It was hilarious and a wonderful photo op. My brother loves modern architecture, so we took a cab to the Alamillo Bridge. We walked on the bridge for a while and then along the river before heading back to the center. We attended the midnight Christmas Eve mass at the Cathedral, which was a really cool experience. I met friends who were sitting in the front row, so I had a great view. I was proud of myself because I understood most of the Spanish throughout the mass. That was certainly the largest cathedral I’ve ever attended mass in and probably ever will.

Dad at Parque Maria Luisa

We explored more areas of Sevilla on Saturday, including Santa Cruz and Triana. We satiated Josh’s desire for jamón iberico for lunch. I had no idea my brother was so obsessed with Spanish ham. In the afternoon, I took my parents to see my apartment and get stuff for the upcoming trip. We got tickets to see a flamenco show near the hotel. It was incredible! It was much more interesting and lively, with both a male and female dancer, than the flamenco I had seen for free. I guess you get what you pay for. My family was really happy to have seen the show. We went out for dinner after the show at Carmela and enjoyed some more tapas. After my parents headed back to their hotel, Josh and I stayed out for a crepe. Shhhh…it’s a secret.

Mom and Dad at the Cathedral

On Sunday, my parents took me to the Museo de Bellas Artes. Museums are not my favorite parts of cities, but we did it fairly quickly and there were certainly some good paintings there and a really nice courtyard. I found a painting where it looked like the guy lying on his deathbed was texting, so we all had a good laugh over that. Then we headed to the art festival in Plaza Nueva, where my parents bought me a handmade bag I had been eyeing. We ran into Rebecca’s parents on the way to a delicious lunch of paella. It truly is a tiny city. After lunch, we spent a while exploring the Alcázar. It was gorgeous, as always. Later, on a nighttime walk to the Alameda, some kids stopped us right outside of the cathedral and asked, “Where is the cathedral?” It couldn’t have been more obvious, and my mom replied, “Are you serious?” It was hilarious and my brother compared it to standing on the beach and asking, “Where’s the ocean?” We settled on dinner at Cervecería Giralda, right by our hotels, and had a variety of delicious and authentic tapas. My dad told the waiters at the end that it was the best tapas he has had but I’m not sure they understood him. We said, “Buenas noches” to Sevilla and headed back to our hotels to sleep before our grand adventure to Morocco the next day.

Sevilla with Brenna and Rosa!

Rosa and Brenna Came to Sevilla!!

I had an incredible time with Brenna and Rosa in Sevilla this week! It was so wonderful to be able to show my friends this city that I love so much. And I think I was successful in getting them to love it too. The week was filled with eating, exploring, shopping, and dancing.

Plaza de España

On Thursday, we went to Plaza de España. It is not only beautiful, but I had one of the most interesting encounters of my life there. There was an old man (about 80-something years old) with a cute puppy that Brenna started to pet, naturally. He started talking to us in Spanish and asked where we were from. He told us that his dog's name was something in French but that he was Jewish and had spent time in Israel. I told him that I was Jewish too, and he got so excited! He immediately said, "Shalooooom!" and gave me a giant hug. He was so happy to meet another Jew, as there are very few in Sevilla, and he went on to say how I had such a beautiful face and white teeth and how Jews are the most intelligent and know many languages. He proceeded to offer me a job and a house. It was a hilarious encounter the entire time, but it was absolutely crazy when he started speaking in nearly perfect English randomly during the conversation. He had been aware that Rosa doesn't speak Spanish but failed to mention his language skills earlier. Eventually, I gave him my number because he could not remember his, but it was adorable to see him try. We had been standing there for a while and his dog had disappeared. So we went off in separate directions trying to find it, with him weakly calling the dog's name. I spotted it about a quarter mile away, and Brenna and Rosa chased him down. I walked with my new friend and he kept saying how happy he was and how precious I was. We eventually departed after getting the dog back on the leash, and he called me an hour later to give me his number. I seriously want this man to be my Spanish Jewish grandpa. He was beyond adorable and nice. Maybe I should randomly pet dogs more often...

Real Alcázar

We had several lovely meals together, ranging from countless tapas to nachos to Japanese food. It is so much fun to eat with Brenna and Rosa because they are so knowledgeable about food and analyze everything about it. I wish my taste buds were as alive as Rosa's. We celebrated Rebecca's birthday at a really cool restaurant with very sweet dishes. We bought mantecados, traditional cookies here, but they turned out to be the most filling, floury cookies ever. And we enjoyed some ham chips and the occasional gelato. Let's just say, we did not starve.

Parque Maria Luisa

On Friday night, the three of us went dancing at Buddha. It was very smoky and crowded, but we met some mildly entertaining guys and danced with them for most of the night. I mostly just wanted to watch this one guy who was an incredible dancer and dancing alone the entire time. I so admire amazing dancers, and he was stellar. It was a really fun night out, but I was dead tired by the end of it and smelled like an ashtray. Supposedly indoor smoking will be banned next year, and I seriously hope this comes into effect quickly. We went to a flamenco show on Thursday night, but they could not even enjoy the show because the smoke was so potent.

I am really sad that they have left Sevilla now. It was so nice having them here and traveling with them earlier. I hope they know how much I appreciate them coming to visit me. When I am so far away from home, it is a wonderful thing to have a bit of home come to me. I appreciate the endless laughs (usually at my expense) and interesting conversations we have had over the past 3 weeks. Now I await my next guests - my amazing family! They are coming on Thursday, and I cannot wait to show them around. I just need to rest my legs before that adventure begins...