Wednesday, December 29, 2010

Guided Around Marrakech By A Drunkard


We had another crazy day today in Marrakech. The adventures and oddities are never ending. We had a delicious and plentiful breakfast this morning before heading out into the city. First, we visited the Saadian Tombs. We waited in a very long line to see one room filled with tombs. It was very pretty but unexpectedly small and similar to many other rooms so I’m not sure it was worth the wait, but everyone was doing it. Then we went to El Badi Palace, which was now just ruins but it was really cool. It was a huge open space with a giant pool in the middle. I would like to throw a big party there like P. Diddy threw his birthday party in the next place we went – Bahia Palace. This palace was more functional with tiled floors and gardens. But I would still choose El Badi Palace for its expansiveness and its pool.

El Badi Palace
Jewish Cemetery
We then headed into the Jewish neighborhood – Mellah. It was hilarious because every time we were near that neighborhood, people would point us to the Jewish section. Everyone automatically knew that we were Jews; there was no fooling them. Somehow Josh got sucked into talking to this completely drunk, stumbling old man who ended up being our guide for the next hour. He led us all around the section. First we went to the synagogue, which was pretty with its blue and white tiles all over the walls. We were walking down the street and went into a spice shop. A man sat us down and showed us all of the spices and products on his walls and gave us some delicious mint tea. After a lot of product demonstrations, we ended up buying some amber perfumes and the mint tea. Then the drunk guy led us to the Jewish cemetery. He said he would wait for us outside because he was not allowed in, but we told the workers there that we were done with him. He put up a protest, but some workers eventually got rid of him for us. Like everyone else we voluntarily pay, he complained about the money and wanted double. We figured out that all of them are trained to beg for more, no matter what the pay is. We heard the stories of the Jews in Marrakech and wandered around the extensive cemetery. I nearly got locked in a bathroom there but luckily wheedled my way out eventually. In any case, I did not end up staying in the cemetery, although I have certainly thought that was possible on this trip.

Getting a Henna Tattoo
After that, we headed to the big market and actually found a good route to get there. The people on the street constantly point for tourists and say, “This way big square.” My mom asked for directions yesterday, and, because of Josh’s not-so-subtle prompts, actually said, “Which way big square?” It was classic. Today we found it without asking that question and ate another delicious dinner there after being told it was the best restaurant in the whole place by about 5 waiters. They sure know how to hound tourists. I had couscous, delicious olives, amazing Moroccan bread, and tomatoes and onions. As we were walking through the square after dinner, a lady approached me and offered me a henna tattoo. The next 3 minutes were totally crazy as she started putting it on me without my agreement, walked me quickly over to another area, grabbed two stools, sat me down on one, and had another woman apply tons of henna to both sides of my right hand. They tried to charge us a ton of money, and, like every other transaction, we ended up getting overcharged, but at least my hand is pretty now. Then we went scarf shopping in the souks before heading home. More people tried to show us to our riad, but we told them we knew where we were going. They also told us that they recognized us from yesterday. Did I mention how I feel out of place here? I think they can tell I don’t belong, too. Now we are back in our riad for a relaxing night before an early morning train to Fez. Josh is sadly leaving us to go party with his friends in Berlin, so there will be three of us left to brave Fez. I hear there aren’t motorbikes there, so we actually have a chance of surviving. 

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